Hair Porosity
After your first bleaching or other chemical treatment, rinse thoroughly, then take a few wet strands of hair and stretch them.
Observe their elasticity. If they break easily and resemble spaghetti, you should stop the treatments.
If they resist tension and return to their normal state, you can proceed. Remember to dry your hair without brushing before continuing.
Your hair may not bleach uniformly, which can happen when the root lightens faster than the rest of your hair.
In such cases, here are the two factors causing it:
- The high level of saturation (layers) of color exposure the lengths have received, as well as the duration of this exposure.
- The heat emitted by your scalp.
Don't be alarmed if your root is one to two shades lighter than your lengths. After application, the color will even out.
If you notice a color plateau (darker sections at the lengths after the maximum processing time of your bleach), rinse your hair, thoroughly dry it without brushing, and simply touch up those sections.
On the contrary, if the lengths and tips of your hair have lightened faster than the root, be cautious, as your hair is very fragile in this case.
Once the lengths have reached the desired color, rinse, dry, and then repeat the treatment for your roots only, avoiding overlapping with the section(s) that are already the desired color.
Bleaching these sections again could cause them to break, which would be obviously undesirable.
2. Skin Sensitivity Test
Clean a patch of skin behind the ear, at the base of the neck, or under the armpit. Use your everyday soap for this purpose.
Prepare a small mixture of the product using a non-metallic teaspoon, following the manufacturer's instructions.
Mix well and apply to the chosen area. Let it dry and wait 24 hours without washing.
If you don't experience intense tingling or a burning sensation, you can proceed.
3. Hair Sensitivity Test
Prepare a mixture using a non-metallic tablespoon following the manufacturer's instructions.
Cut a small strand of hair from the middle of your nape, where the hair is darkest. The longer the strand, the better you'll gauge your hair's porosity.
Place the strand on a piece of plastic wrap.
Apply the mixture and time it as soon as you're done. This will give you an idea of the required processing time to achieve the desired level.
Examine your hair's quality after rinsing. If you're satisfied, proceed.
Now that you've mastered color and bleaching techniques, the following pages will guide you step by step with photos on how to achieve color effects.
You'll also discover techniques for creating highlights at home.
Never hesitate to refer back to the previous pages before beginning a treatment, and have fun!
4. Coloring Techniques and Color Effects
You'll learn how to apply color to your hair to create various effects. At the same time, you'll become familiar with the art of coloring.
All the tricks suggested here are based on basic processes that will help you create a multitude of effects according to your imagination.
Before you start, ensure you have everything necessary to complete the job. The result can vary based on hair length, cut, and chosen color.
For example, on layered hair, coloring effects will be more pronounced than on non-layered hair.
Technique 1: The Zigzag
Step 1:
In front of a mirror, using a tail comb, trace an imperfect zigzag around the head at eyebrow level, going from one eyebrow to the other. For a more pronounced coloring effect, trace the zigzag higher than the eyebrows.
Step 2:
Secure the top section with a hairband.
Step 3:
Choose two colors, a darker color to apply to the bottom section, and a lighter one for the top section. It's normal for the two colors to overlap at the zigzag parting during application.
Don't worry; this won't compromise the result. Just avoid overlapping too much.
During rinsing, rinse the dark color first, then the lighter one. Rinsing might be more delicate if you've used highly contrasting colors.
In that case, prevent the dark from touching the light during rinsing. If it happens, rinse all your hair quickly.
Remember, this coloring method gives a natural effect to the hair since hair naturally appears lighter on top.
Technique 2: Veil Highlights
Veil highlights can be done anywhere on the head except on top, where you should keep the base color to create the veil effect.
Step 1:
Create diagonal sections where desired (the diagonal separation will create a veil effect that integrates better with layers). The sections can also be straight.
Step 2:
Secure the top section.
Step 3:
Take a thin section (veil) following the same separation.
Step 4:
To achieve the veil effect in the desired areas, cut a piece of aluminum foil the width and length of the strand (or slightly more), and apply the color to make the hair adhere.
Step 5:
Place the foil under the strand and apply the same color to the entire strand.
Step 6:
Fold the aluminum foil slightly lengthwise, being careful not to apply pressure to the strand and the product. Finish by folding the sides.
If you desire veil colors darker than your base, you'll need to rinse the foils quickly to prevent the dark from sliding onto the light. If needed, rinse quickly and proceed immediately to shampooing.
This coloring technique highlights the haircut's texture and can draw attention to your fringe. It's an excellent illusion for thinning hair at the front due to the pale strands diverting attention from the scalp.
Technique 3: The Claw
This coloring technique aims to create color asymmetry in your hair.
Step 1:
Using a tail comb, trace a parting from one temple to the other and secure the section with a hairband. If some strands are too short to be held by the hairband, use hairpins.
Step 2:
Make a second diagonal parting from the same point on the temple to under the opposite ear and secure it with a hairband, then secure the last section below on the opposite side.
Step 3:
Choose the same base color for the top and bottom sections. Apply to the bottom section first, then the top section. To avoid touching the central section, use hairpins to secure the already treated sections.
Step 4:
Apply the highlight color (the one that will give the colored effect) to the central section (the claw). Don't worry if the product color touches the other sections; one color doesn't fade another.
After application, knead well with gloves to ensure hair is well saturated with color. Don't forget to rinse the gloves well before applying the color.
Step 5:
For rinsing the color, start with the back, i.e., the bottom section. Rinse it thoroughly, then rinse the highlights (the central one).
Afterward, apply a good amount of shampoo to these two sections, especially on the highlights but without rinsing. This step will prevent the highlights from adhering to the base color.
Finally, rinse the top color, preferably with your head forward, to avoid any sliding onto the highlights color.
